Before learning any fancy skills on your board, first you need to catch a wave. With experience, you will be able to identify a wave on the horizon that is relatively easy to catch, then it is a case of paddling hard to match its speed. You will feel the wave carrying you forward, then stand on your board (‘pop-up’) and keep your balance! Usually you aim to ride the wave just ahead of the white water, the ‘curl’. Catching waves and getting to your feet are the fundamentals and can take considerable practice.
Once you feel you have mastered the basics, it may be time to try out a few moves like turning and carving. If you’re a beginner, you’re most likely using a longboard, which are great for tricks like ‘hang five’ – one foot at the front of the board with your toes just over the edge - or ‘hang ten’ / ‘nose riding’ – both feet at the front and all toes over the edge. Other board stances include ‘goofy foot’ – left foot at back of board or ‘hang heels’ – facing backward with your heels over the edge.
Probably the most common maneuver is the ‘cutback’ which is basically turning back towards the breaking part of the wave. To ‘fade’, aim toward the breaking part of the wave, then turn sharply and surf in the direction the wave is breaking towards. Try a ‘floater’ – where you ride on top of the breaking curl and the come down with it – or ‘off the lip’ – where you bank off the top of the wave. ‘Pumping’ is an up and down carving movement that helps build speed or you can ‘stall’ by shifting your weight to the tail of the board or putting a hand in the water to slow you down.
You need to watch more experienced surfers to pick up these moves and be prepared to wipeout (perhaps MANY times) on your first attempts. The best way to learn is through experience so get out there!
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