Surfboards are made to float on the water. They have a natural center of gravity. If you were to lay any surfboard in a swimming pool, it would come to rest the same way every time.
What you want to do when you lay on a surf board is to have the board remain in the same relation to the water as it was without your weight on it, just a bit lower in the water.
Mark The Balance Point
A good tip is to find this balance point is to lay on your board then make a mark right at your chin. This spot is best made with a bit of wax or a magic marker. It is a reference point that enables you to put your chin on the same spot every time, so the board will react to your weight the same way every time.
Pearling
If the board's nose digs into the water it is called pearling and you must move the location of "your chin" back. To adjust, just slide back an inch from the mark and make a mental note.
Corking
Too much weigh in the back and the board will cork. This is a common mistake amongst beginners. You cannot catch a wave if you are corking your board. Move up an inch at a time till the board lies in the water naturally. This will provide you with the maximum hull speed and minimum drag from the water displacement that you are causing with your weight.
Paddle With The Crawl Stroke
Do not paddle with both arms simultaneously because this will cause the board to speed up and slow down in the water and you will not be able to maintain constant hull speed through the water. Always paddle with the crawl stroke...one arm and then the other alternatively. This will provide you with a constant speed so you can catch that wave.
Sitting On The Board
Ok, so now we know how to lie on the board and paddle the board. Now it's time to learn how to sit on the board. The first time try this you may be quite wobbly. The key to doing this well is being calm, or trying to be still. The less movement that you make, the easier you will find it is to do this. All the other skills of surfing will improve as you learn to be "calm" while surfing.
Standing On The Board
Now it's time to learn how to stand up. This is something you have been doing all your life. Lie on your chest, your head up, looking ahead. Put your hands on the board beside your shoulders, palms down like you were going to do a push up. Push your upper body up and at the same time sweep your feet under you. Make sure your feet are laying on the stringer, the line down the middle of the board. This move keeps your weight centered along the stringer.
When you come up, remember to keep low. If you stand erect you will fall. Ass
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